Laser Hair Removal: Methods, Costs and Permanent Results

Laser hair removal — also known as photoepilation or laser epilation — is a long-term hair reduction procedure in which laser light selectively destroys melanin-containing hair follicles, permanently reducing hair growth. Modern laser systems allow for effective, long-lasting removal of unwanted hair on virtually any area of the body, from legs and underarms to the bikini zone and face.

What Is Laser Hair Removal?

Laser hair removal is a dermatological procedure that uses concentrated light of a specific wavelength to permanently damage hair follicles and thereby long-term reduce or completely halt hair growth. The principle is based on selective photothermolysis — a physical mechanism in which light energy is converted into heat, targeting only the specific tissue (the hair root) while leaving the surrounding tissue unaffected.

Unlike shaving, which only removes surface hair, or waxing, which pulls the hair from the root but does not permanently damage it, laser therapy acts directly on the hair follicle. By precisely destroying the follicle, renewed hair growth is sustainably inhibited or completely prevented.

Mechanism of Action: Selective Photothermolysis

The scientific foundation of laser hair removal is selective photothermolysis (SPTL), a concept first described in the 1980s by dermatologists Anderson and Parrish at Harvard Medical School. The mechanism can be broken down into three key processes:

Absorption of light energy by melanin: Hair contains melanin — the natural pigment responsible for hair color. Melanin efficiently absorbs specific light wavelengths, particularly in the 600 to 1100 nanometer range. When laser light of these wavelengths strikes the hair, it is absorbed by the melanin in the hair shaft and follicle.
Conversion to heat and thermal damage: The absorbed light energy is converted into heat, which spreads from the hair shaft to the follicle — specifically to the hair papilla and the stem cell region of the bulge area. At temperatures above 70 degrees Celsius, the biological structures of the follicle are irreversibly damaged, eliminating or permanently impairing its ability to regenerate.
Selectivity: The laser targets only the chromophore (melanin in the follicle) without damaging surrounding skin tissue. This is controlled by wavelength, pulse duration, and energy density (fluence). The pulse duration must be shorter than the thermal relaxation time of the target tissue — for hair follicles, this is between 10 and 100 milliseconds depending on follicle size.

Laser Types Used in Hair Removal

Different laser systems are used in hair removal, differing in wavelength, depth of penetration, and suitability for various skin and hair types.

Alexandrite Laser (755 nm)

The alexandrite laser operates at 755 nanometers in the red spectrum. It has a high melanin absorption rate, making it highly effective for dark hair. It is best suited for light to olive skin tones (Fitzpatrick types I–III) with dark hair. Its large spot sizes and fast repetition rates make it efficient for large body areas such as legs or the back. It carries a higher risk of pigmentation changes on darker skin types.

Diode Laser (800–810 nm)

The diode laser — operating at 800 to 810 nanometers — is one of the most versatile and widely used systems. It penetrates deeper than the alexandrite laser, allowing better access to deeper follicles. It offers a good balance between melanin absorption and penetration depth and is suitable for a broader range of skin types (Fitzpatrick I–V). Modern diode systems often feature integrated cooling mechanisms for added patient comfort and safety.

Nd:YAG Laser (1064 nm)

The neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) laser operates at 1064 nanometers in the infrared range — the longest wavelength of the common hair removal lasers. This means lower melanin absorption but very deep tissue penetration and significantly lower absorption by epidermal melanin. The Nd:YAG laser is the safest option for darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV–VI), carrying the lowest risk of hyper- or hypopigmentation. It is the method of choice for dark skin with dark hair.

IPL: Not a True Laser

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) is not a true laser — it emits broad-spectrum light flashes across a wide wavelength range (typically 400–1200 nm), filtered to a specific band. IPL devices are less precise, as energy is distributed across multiple wavelengths rather than focused on a single target. Medical lasers are generally considered more effective, precise, and safer than IPL, especially for complex treatment cases or darker skin types.

Treatable Body Areas

Face and neck: Upper lip, chin, cheeks, temples, eyebrows, and neck (both front and back)
Underarms: A popular area requiring only a few minutes per session; dark coarse hairs respond very well
Bikini and intimate area: Classic bikini line, Brazilian (full removal), and Hollywood (full removal including the rear)
Legs: Lower legs, upper legs, or full legs — modern large-spot lasers treat these areas efficiently
Back and chest (men): Back, chest, neck, shoulders, and abdomen
Arms and forearms: Increasingly popular for both women and men

Skin Types and the Fitzpatrick Scale

The Fitzpatrick classification system describes six skin types based on color and UV response:

Type I: Very fair, always burns, never tans — alexandrite laser recommended, but light/red hair has less melanin and may respond poorly
Type II: Fair skin, often burns — excellent conditions for alexandrite and diode lasers with dark hair
Type III: Fair to olive, occasional burns — good suitability for diode laser; alexandrite with caution
Type IV: Medium to olive-brown, rarely burns — diode or Nd:YAG recommended
Type V: Dark brown, very rarely burns — Nd:YAG preferred to minimize pigmentation risk
Type VI: Very dark to black, no burns — Nd:YAG only, as it has the least interaction with epidermal melanin

The greater the contrast between hair color and skin color, the more efficient and safe the treatment. Light, grey, or white hair contains little to no melanin and generally does not respond to laser therapy — an important limitation to discuss with patients before treatment.

Why Multiple Sessions Are Needed

Hair grows in cycles, not continuously. Only hair in the active growth phase (anagen phase) contains sufficient melanin in the follicle and is connected to the papilla — making it the only phase in which laser treatment is effective. The percentage of hairs in the anagen phase varies by body area: approximately 20–30% for underarms and legs, up to 70% for the face.

Multiple treatments spaced 4 to 8 weeks apart ensure that successive follicles are treated during their optimal growth phase. After completing a full course of sessions, the majority of treated follicles are permanently impaired.

Number of Sessions Required

As a general guideline, 6 to 8 sessions are typically required for a permanent hair reduction of 70 to 90 percent. The face — particularly in women with hormonally driven hair growth — may require 8 to 12 or more sessions. Factors influencing the total number include:

Hormone status (PCOS, pregnancy, menopause, certain medications)
Hair thickness and color — thick, dark hair responds best
Body area and its anagen-phase ratio
Laser technology used

Laser Hair Removal Costs

Body Area	Approximate Cost per Session
Upper lip / chin	30–80 EUR
Underarms	50–120 EUR
Bikini line	60–150 EUR
Lower legs	100–250 EUR
Full legs	200–450 EUR
Back (men)	150–400 EUR

Prices vary by provider, location, device technology, and region. Package deals for multiple sessions are commonly offered at reduced per-session rates. Medical practices with certified equipment typically charge more than cosmetic studios — but offer greater precision, safety, and suitability for all skin types.