Chemical Peel: Skin Renewal through Chemical Exfoliation

The chemical peel is one of the oldest and most effective procedures for skin renewal. Through the controlled application of chemical substances (acids), damaged skin layers are loosened and the formation of healthy, smoother skin is stimulated. Depending on the depth of the peel, acne scars, pigmentation spots, fine lines, sun damage and uneven skin texture can be treated.

Types of Chemical Peels

Superficial Peel

Acts on the epidermis. Suitable for beginners, mild pigmentation, dry or dull skin.

AHA peel (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid): 20–70% concentration
BHA peel (salicylic acid): particularly suitable for oily skin and acne
Retinoic acid peel: mild exfoliation with anti-ageing effect

Downtime: none to 1–3 days of mild redness and flaking.

Medium-Depth Peel

Acts into the papillary dermis. Effective for acne scars, deeper pigmentation, moderate wrinkles.

TCA peel (trichloroacetic acid) 15–35%: standard method for medium-depth effect
Jessner's solution: combination of salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol

Downtime: 5–10 days; redness, flaking, crusting; sun protection essential.

Deep Peel

Acts into the reticular dermis. For deep wrinkles, pronounced acne scars, severe sun damage.

Phenol peel: strongest chemical peel, medical application mandatory, ECG monitoring required
TCA 50%+: high concentration for deep effect

Downtime: 2–3 weeks; intense erythema, swelling, crusting; permanent UV protection important.

Indications

Indication	Recommended Peel Depth
Dull, tired skin	Superficial (AHA/BHA)
Mild pigmentation (freckles)	Superficial to medium
Melasma	Medium (TCA + specific protocols)
Mild acne scars	Medium (TCA)
Pronounced acne scars	Medium to deep
Fine lines and wrinkles	Medium to deep
Deep wrinkles, severe sun damage	Deep (phenol)

Costs

Peel Type	Costs per Session
Superficial AHA/BHA peel	€80–€200
Medium-depth TCA peel	€200–€500
Deep phenol peel	€800–€2,000

Risks and Side Effects

Hyperpigmentation: most common complication in darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV+)
Hypopigmentation: permanent lightening (especially with deep peels)
Scarring: rare, with infections or improper application
Herpes reactivation: preventive antiviral treatment in herpes history

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Which chemical peel is the strongest?

Phenol peel (deepest) > TCA 30–50% > Jessner's solution > glycolic acid 50–70% (superficial). Deeper peels = more effect, more downtime, higher risk. For home use: max. glycolic acid 30% or mandelic acid 40%.

How long is the downtime after a chemical peel?

Superficial (AHA, BHA): 2–5 days redness/peeling; no real downtime. Medium-depth peel (TCA 20–30%): 5–10 days flaking, redness, swelling; social downtime. Deep peel (TCA >35%, phenol): 2–3 weeks, intense crusting, redness up to 3 months.

Can chemical peels be performed on darker skin types?

With caution: Fitzpatrick skin type IV–VI has higher risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Recommendation: only very superficial peels (mandelic acid, lactic acid), prior depigmentation preparation for 4 weeks, then consistent SPF 50. TCA and phenol peels not recommended for darker skin types.